Throughout history, secret compartments
have been found in anything, from desks, to chairs, to lamps. In this video, we’ll show you
how to add a concealed compartment in the bottom of a dresser drawer. [Captions by Judy V. at Y Translator]
[Music] [Music] To get started on this build, we’re going to need a dresser,
a desk, or an end table that has a drawer that you want
to add a secret compartment to. Next, you’ll need a thin board that you can build
the bottom of the drawer out of. Next, you’ll want
a small scrap of wood to create the supports
for the false bottom. We’ll also need
a little bit of wood glue to attach our support pieces. Here’s the basic idea. We’ll cut a thin board
into the same size and shape as the original bottom of the drawer. We’ll have supports
in each of the four corners that will hold our false bottom off
of the original bottom of the drawer. A hole drilled from beneath
will allow us to use a pen, a nail, or a piece of a dowel, as a secret key
to lift the false bottom up. In addition, we’ll have
a magnetically activated lock that will prevent anyone
from lifting up the false bottom, unless they know
the secret to opening it. The first step is
to choose which drawer you want to add
your false bottom to, and remove it from
the rest of your furniture. This nightstand only
has a single drawer, so it’s an easy choice. [Music] After removing the
drawer from our furniture, we need to measure how big
the interior of the drawer is. We’ll cut a piece
that size out of our board. If you have multiple drawers, it might be a good idea to try and match
the look of the false bottom to the bottoms that
are already in there, so it doesn’t stand out. In this case, the material
for the false bottom isn’t quite the same as the material
that’s already in the drawer, but since there’s only one drawer,
there’s nothing to compare it to. [Music] The board is now cut
almost to the right size. But it doesn’t quite fit in. The amount we need to take down
the width of this board is very minor, so we’ll try putting
the gate of the table-saw right up against the blade, and see if we can trim off
just the tiniest bit of this board. [Music] Our board is now basically cut to size. And we can start testing
to see if it fits into our drawer. But before we do that,
we want to add a keyhole. The key to opening
the false bottom of the drawer will be a small hole
in the original bottom. We’ll use a small dowel, a pen,
or a nail to pop a secret bottom off. Now that we’ll be able
to get the false bottom out, let’s test if it fits. [Music] It looks like we’re really close, but it doesn’t quite lay all the way down. And even though we’re going
to have it raised up a bit more, we want to shave off
some of the excess material so it fits a little
bit more flush than this. Looking at the front of the drawer, we can see that there are
some slight gaps in some places, and other places where it’s
completely flush with the wood. The spots where
it’s completely flush is where it’s pressing
maybe a little bit too hard. Let’s mark those with a pencil, and then take them
down using a belt sander. [Music] Once you’ve cut and sanded the board, that will be your false bottom,
so it fits perfectly into your drawer, it’s time to cut some supports
that will keep it lifted off of the actual bottom of the drawer. This is where our little
scrap of wood comes in. I like the thickness of this
scrap of wood for the total elevation. If you wanted anything
more than that of course, you can just cut farther,
and turn the pieces sideways. To be able to cut all four pieces
that I’m going to need off of this block just the same size, I’m going to clamp this
board in place on to the saw. That will make it so that as I cut, every piece is cut off the same width. [Music] Before we glue these in place, let’s do a final test fit
with all four of these in the corners and our new false
bottom on top of them. [Music] Our false bottom fits, but the nail that
I was using to pop it out is too short compared to this drawer. So I’m gonna move to
using this piece of dowel. This is long enough that we should
be able to pop the false bottom all the way up and out of the drawer. So let’s just widen our hole
a little bit to fit this size dowel. [Music] With our board fit to size, we can now glue the four supports
into the four corners of our drawer. [Music] We can now fit our
false bottom into our drawer. And we can remove it whenever we want. But for an added layer of security, I want to try and add a hidden lock
to the inside of our secret compartment. For this lock, we’ll use
a small hinge, some powerful magnets, a piece of a kitchen sponge, and a piece of dowel that can fit
through the screw holes on the hinge. We’ve also got some super glue
and some two part epoxy. Let’s use some epoxy
to glue our hinge down on to the bottom of our board. So that the piece that hangs down
is just about flush with the edge. This kind of two-part epoxy is one
that bonds especially well to metal. To help make sure it sticks, I’m also using a little bit of sandpaper
to rough up the backside of the hinge. [Music] With the hinge secured in place, we now want to use the same epoxy
to attach one of our strong magnets to the other side of the hinge. The hinge pin is not made
of the same stainless steel as the rest of the hinge. And our magnet is more attracted to it. If we try and set the magnet right here, it gets drawn into the hinge pin. To keep our magnet where we want it, we’ll apply the epoxy, and then use this small scrap
of cardboard just to keep it in place. Our hinge now has the
magnet attached to it. And we don’t want
this hinge to fall closed, except when we dictate. So to keep it open until we’re ready, we’re gonna use
a small piece of sponge as a sort of compression spring. We’ll have a small piece of this dowel
attached to the front of the drawer. When the hinge hangs down, the hole will fit over
the end of the dowel, creating a latch to make it so our
false bottom can’t be lifted up. However, using a magnet,
we’ll be able to pull on the hinge, and it will move out of the way
so it’s no longer attached to the dowel. To mark where we want to put the dowel, we’ll apply a tiny bit of paint
to the outside of the circle on the hinge. We’ll then use our magnets
to hold it in place as we lower the false
bottom into the drawer. At that point,
if we remove the magnets, the hinge should fall down. And if we turn our magnet around, we can even push it
slightly up against the drawer. This little spot right here
is what was marked by our paint. And then it did drag a little bit on the side of the
drawer as we lift it up, so there’s a little bit
of a white line going up. We need to drill a hole
the same size as our dowel right in this spot. [Music] Our dowel fits into place. And of course, we don’t
want a very long piece. We want a piece
that just barely sticks out far enough for
the hinge to grab on to. After we cut the
dowel at this length, we’ll also taper
the edge a little bit so it’s easier for
the hinge to fit around it. Okay. About half of one cut
with our hacksaw was enough. [Music] The false bottom is built, and our drawer is ready
to go back in the nightstand. [Music] Guys, that’s not all. We’ve got more for you to see. That little box up at the top
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