My culinary voice is quieter and quieter
with every year. I try to say much more with fewer words and fewer ingredients. My first dishes were a pile-up
of ingredients. My menu… each dish was six sentences long. I’d like a few French
words with a couple of American ones mixed into a hybrid sentence spoken very
clearly. I’m ingredient-driven, there’s just nothing I can do about it. You
know I see the wood sorrel, I see kumquats, I see plums, cherries
whatever it is, broccoli — there’s twenty kinds of broccoli. I mean, things are
exploding. You gotta stay on it.